Salento, it's all about the coffee

 

Another bus ride but this time during the day which gave us the opportunity to see more of the Colombian roadworks. A 6 hour journey turned out to be 8 hours, much like public transport in the UK but with people selling snacks at every hold up. You've got to admire their entrepreneurship.

Our destination was Salento, a charming Andean hill town in the coffee triangle of Colombia and apparently inspiration for the backdrop of Disney's Encanto. No, me neither. Apparently it's loosely based on Marquez's 100 Years of Solitude (which I finished by the way), without the incest.

We were here for a few days so had booked somewhere with a private bathroom (reet posh us) and the most incredible views which we didn't even have to get out of bed to see.

We did however, get out of bed to explore. After a Spanish lesson over post breakfast coffee with our gorgeous host, Liliana (we are still rubbish) we ventured into town to find a Willy. I am totally resisting the obvious temptation here. Willy's are Salento taxis, brightly coloured jeeps. Over the course of our time here we played several games of Willy sardines, the most hairy being balanced on the backboard hanging  onto the roof bars for an uphill rough track 30 minute journey.

Our first Willy took us to an organic, family run, coffee farm for an interactive tour and tasting. There was unbargained for dressing up in a way I am sure no real coffee pickers are clothed. I think our friends, Sarah, David and Zac,who own a family run organic French vineyard are missing a trick for vendage here. Berets, stripey T-shirt andstrings of garlic this year, guys? Costumes aside it was actually a very informative  and well run tour. Coffee buying and drinking is going to change in our house.

Our second day was a 12km trek in the Corcora Valley amongst the famous wax palms, the tallest palms in the world and the emblematic tree of Colombia found in this region and this valley in particular. They are apparently becoming endangered due to the increasing preponderance of the avocado, thanks to all those hipster cafes serving everything with avocado I guess. This is having a knock on effect on the survival of the Yellow-eared parrot (thank-you Google). It is hoped eco tourism will help to save the palms. There was an, again unbargained for, 900m climb up to an altitude of 2800m. I was blaming my breathlessness on the altitude, not my level of fitness!

The route down took us via a hummingbird sanctuary where we sheltered from a thunderstorm drinking hot chocolate and cheese.....yes it's a thing. Colombians are apparently brought up on it. The hot chocolate is made with solid chocolate and milk or aguapanela - raw sugar cane dissolved in water. The cheese is white and slightly salty. You are supposed to chop it up and drop it in the drink to dissolve into a delicious gloop which can then be fished out with a spoon and eaten or stirred to completely mix in. I promise you, it works. Richard begs to differ!

The remainder of our time in Salento was spent pootling and watching with a LOT of coffee drinking, and a little bit of admin. Unavoidable when away for two months. 

photo credit for this and various others to Rich

We did take a trip to Filandia, a nearby town with the most bizarre wooden lookout construction on top of a hill which gave some good 360 degree views. More colourful buildings but busier than Salento. In all honesty probably more "real life" going on but the, albeit backpacker and Colombian tourist filled, Salento suited our needs for these few days of relaxation much better.

It wasn't just people watching here though, there was also some very easy birdwatching. For our twitcher friends and family, fill your boots....and identify them for us!

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